Hector’s on Yawnerson
Saturday, August 26th, 2006Quick Facts
- Name
- Hector's on Henderson
- Price
- $$$
- Rating
- 2.5 / 5 Stars
- Website
- www.hectorsonhenderson.com
- Valet
- Yes, mandatory
Ok, I think it’s clear from the title here that I wasn’t wowed by Hector’s on Henderson. I could be unfairly judging the place based on bizarre coincidence of factors, or maybe I just had a poor evening. At any rate, I was let down. Perhaps I just had the place too built up in my head. Over-hyped, you might say.
The first thing that may not have been working in Hector’s favor was, unfortunately, Restaurant Week. First, the trimmed down menu was small. And, contrary to Abacus which is normally a more expensive place to dine than Hector’s, they somewhat ignored the prix fixe spirit of Restaurant Week by adding upcharges on about a 3rd of the selections. Boo.
The second thing was timing. I didn’t experience Hector’s at its best. I wasn’t there for live music. Chef Todd Erickson who was part of the initial popularity of the restaurant, moved on almost two years ago. And, we made our reservations late, which meant we sat on the patio. The patio wasn’t bad, but I would liked to have experienced their main dining room.
The third thing was, well, the food. I have no complaints about the fried green tomatoes I ordered as an appetizer. They were appropriately fresh and flavorful. But that is where my love affair with the food at Hector’s ended. I thoroughly enjoyed my redfish with avocado puree and crab pico de gallo. But the filet was small. Lilliputian even. So little, in fact, that it was nearly dwarfed by the scoop of guacamole (ahem, excuse me, “avocado puree”) resting next to it. Which is a shame, since it did taste quite good. Now, I know Americans are over-accustomed to large portions and you’re probably thinking, “Oh simmer down, I’m sure you’re comparing it to the mega-combo fish basket at Long John Silver’s” but I’m not. To further drive home the point, I’m quite sure I ate more seafood flesh from the mound of crab pico than I did from the filet.
Then came dessert. The cobbler du jour was peach, which sounded fantastic. I’ve had cobbler many dozens of times in my life and I was excited to see what a more upscale restaurant would do with this humble dessert. As an example, when I ate at Standard last year, I ordered strawberry shortcake. Only instead of shortcake they used lemon scones and instead of whipped cream they used crème fraîche and it was delightful. But the cobbler I got at Hector’s could not have possibly been more boring. In fact, I’d go far enough to say it was medicore and that I’ve had better from my grocer’s freezer. It wasn’t crispy, it was poorly seasoned, and had about half as much fruit as I’d like to have seen.
And perhaps the Hector’s experience is just one I’m not keen to. Their party piece is the re-imagining of traditional “comfort food” cuisine. I mean, their signature dish is meatloaf! I could be unfairly expecting more than Hector’s ever intended to deliver.
Lastly, was the valet experience. Normally, I couldn’t care less about valet parking my car. I don’t have a fancy ride nor do I feel particularly catered-to when someone parks it for me. But Hector’s uses a valet service that is also used by next couple of buildings. I think. I can’t imagine another sensible reason to wait 20 minutes for my car. Maybe they were super busy because of Restaurant Week. Maybe it’s always like that at Hector’s because they park half the cars across the street. At any rate, it didn’t improve my impression of the evening on the whole.
Will I go back? Yes. But it won’t be for quite some time - there are many more places to try.