Fine Dining, Pyled High
December 19th, 2007Quick Facts
- Name
- Stephan Pyles
- Price
- $$$$
- Rating
- 5 / 5 Stars
- Website
- www.stephanpyles.com
- Valet
- Yes, mandatory
If you’re even slightly interested in the restaurant scene in Dallas, you know about Stephan Pyles - both the man and his eponymous restaurant in the heart of Dallas’ Arts District on Ross Avenue.
I first went to Stephan Pyles a year ago for my birthday. When the calender of my life rolled over once again, I realized I wanted to make eating there an annual event to celebrate that very occasion. And let me tell you, I am very glad that I did.
The first thing you notice about Stephan Pyles happens before you even open the door. The facade of the building is dressed with floor-to-ceiling windows, giving both diners and passers-by alike a peek at the visual feast that lay within. The first thing you notice about the gorgeous interior design is the treatment given to the ceiling in the foyer. Beautiful woods, stones, and copper cover the surfaces, elegantly lit by faux-flicker sconces. Several walls still proudly display the original terra-cotta bricks from the original 1963 building. Once at your table, you realize that not only do you yourself have a view of the kitchen, but diners at nearly every table in the restaurant can enjoy the same view - the chefs at work.
Early on, my date and I were tempted by an offering from the waiter: a six course tasting menu with smaller versions of their dishes accompanied by a specific wine pairing for each course. After ordering two glasses of Veuve Clicquot (hey, it was my birthday), we spent a considerable amount of time reviewing the menu, only to come full-circle back to the six-course option. By the end of the night it was clear we had made the right choice, so let’s get on to the food!
First course was lobster ceviche with their Gazpacho Blanco, an absolutely delightful take on the traditionally tomato-based cold soup with frozen grapes and almonds. The texture was super smooth and all the flavors were equally delicate and matched perfectly with the lobster. This course was paired with a Pinto Grigio that could not have been a better fit.
The second course was Seared Sea Bass with Roasted Garlic Tamale Tart and Okra Corn Stew. Wow. Wow. This was good, much better than I was expecting. The sea bass was cooked to perfection, and the combined flavors of the tart and stew transcend description. Upon reflection at the end of the meal, both my date and I agreed that this course was the favorite of the evening. I’m struggling to remember the wine this came with, but I do recall that it matched equally well as the first course.
Next came Seared Foie Gras and Spit Roasted Suckling Pig with Mascarpone Polenta and Plum Jus. Until that evening, I had never eaten foie gras before, and do have some reservations about how it is produced. That being said, this was delicious and succulent. Differing from what this dish’s wordy title may have you believe, it was also accompanied by half of a Turkish fig which rounded out the flavor palette of this dish with perfection. In fact I’m trying to imagine what flavors would complete this dish better than those it came with, and I think there just aren’t any. Quite surprisingly, yet delectably appropriate, this course was paired with a dessert wine from King Estate - their Vin Glacé, Pinot Gris.
The fourth course was interesting, and it took me a few minutes to realize its purpose; as a palette cleanser. You see, the first three were all relatively light dishes paired with a white or sweet wine. So to prepare our taste buds for what was to come next, we were served a delicious little scoop of a frozen persimmon sorbet. Not only was this very tasty, but the presentation was adorable, the sorbet beset by two small cubes of persimmon on one side, and some micro greens on the other.
I was no stranger to this course, seeing as how I had the entrée portion for my birthday last year. Coriander-Cured Rack of Lamb with Ecuadorian Potato Cake and Cranberry Mojo. Anybody who is a fan of lamb will absolutely love this preparation, cooked to a beautiful medium-rare. Also, it’s very refreshing to have cranberries as part of a dish when it’s not Thanksgiving. The hearty potato cake went wonderfully with the bold flavors of lamb and cranberry. The wine we enjoyed with this course was a wonderful, earthy red, the details of which I do not recall.
What by-the-course meal is complete without dessert? Keeping in tradition with the fact that this was a tasting menu, dessert was a platter with sampler sizes of four of their best desserts. Flourless Xocopili Cake, “Coffee and Doughnuts”, Frozen Guanabana Soufflé, and the “Lemon Lemon Lemon” trio of lemon desserts. Now, I should explain what the “Coffee and Doughnuts” dessert is, both because it doesn’t sound very exciting, and also because it was my favorite. The “doughnut” half is traditional enough, being a nice little powdered doughnut hole. The “coffee” half, however, was not a drink, but rather an exquisite coffee creme brulée, and I’m a total sucker for a good creme brulée.
All in, this is easily my favorite restaurant in Dallas. I will probably come here every year for my birthday for many years to come.